Help with exterior chimney repair questions
''New'' homeowner (of a 50 year old house), here.On the exterior of my
house, my oil burner is chimney has brickwork around the flue that is
covered with white plaster which has started to crack and come off.(About
a 4 foot stretch is affected.)I've noticed some dampness (but thankfully
not mold) inside the house underneath where the chimney enters the house
through the ceiling and walls.l wanna replaster the exterior of the
chimney above the roofline to address this.A few quick questions? 2) Is it true that l should turn on the furnace for a day or two for the masonry to ''expand'' with the heat before l apply the plaster/cement? 3) Do l need to break off all the existing exterior plaster on the chimney before l reapply new plaster, or can l just do a patch job? 4) There are a few ceiling tiles that seem slightly damp on the inside of the house near where the chimney enters the home.(Not wet, just slightly damp.)Should l replace these to prevent mold, or are these likely going to dry out and be OK if l can tackle this in the next few days? 5) Should l also apply silicone caulking around the base of the chimney, where it meets the roof, after doing the plastering?(That was suggested in another question l saw answered.) 6) Let is say this starts to look more than something I am capable of doing myself, what ballpark prices would you expect?(It is busy season for the chimney folks so the soonest one can see me is in about a week - probably too long...) Thanks for your help!
sounds like your flues arent cemented together anymore and
moisture is coming through to your plaster. we had a stainless liner
dropped down our chimney and havent had any moisture problems since.where
the chimney meets the roof should be flashed and if you need some sealing
i would use a roof cement.
It sounds like the brick chimney need tuckpointed. This is a
method of digging out the old, loose mortar & then installing new mortar
with a tuckpointing tool.
1) The plaster is aesthetic on the chimney. It is for looks only.
2) No.
3) You need to remove the plaster at the joint lines to
inspect/remove/tuckpoint the mortar. 4) Mold grown on anything that was alive at one time; or organic. It takes two days. So, yes, replace the tiles. 5) Silicone can be used but roofing tar is what the pros use. But, the proper installation is aluminum flashing that is cut & formed to fit in the joints of the masonry in a stair step fashion approximately 8'' to 12'' up from the roof. This created joint is then sealed with a strong roofing caulk like Vulcam. 6) The pricing will come from an estimated 90% labor & 10% materials. Material cost sounds like less than $100.00. So, if you are up to the task, you could save some money. Good luck to you!
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